Wool grading is often confusing because multiple grading systems overlap. Understanding what "Super 120s" actually means โ and when it matters โ is essential to specifying wool programmes correctly. This guide explains the four key metrics: Super-S number, micron count, staple length and comfort factor.
The Super-S System
Super-S is a marketing designation tied to fibre diameter:
- Super 80s: 19.5 micron โ mid-market suiting
- Super 100s: 18.5 micron โ standard commercial premium
- Super 120s: 17.5 micron โ premium mid-market retail
- Super 130s: 16.5 micron โ premium tier
- Super 150s: 16.0 micron โ luxury tier
- Super 180s: 14.5 micron โ ultra-luxury, delicate
- Super 200s and above: rare, artisan
Understanding Micron Count
Lower micron = finer fibre = softer hand + higher cost:
- Under 15 microns: cashmere-comparable softness, delicate
- 15โ19 microns: Merino wool range
- 19โ22 microns: mid-market wool
- 22โ28 microns: coarser wools, for outerwear/carpet
Staple Length
Longer staple = stronger yarn = less pilling:
- Under 55mm: shorter staple, more pilling
- 55โ75mm: standard commercial
- 75mm+: premium (Merino from mature sheep)
Comfort Factor
Percentage of fibres under 30 microns โ higher means less itch:
- Below 90%: itchy
- 90โ95%: acceptable for outerwear
- 95%+: skin-contact suitable
Choosing Wool Grade by End Use
- Business suit (year-round wear): Super 100sโ120s, 9โ10oz
- Formal wedding suit: Super 130sโ150s
- Base layer / next-to-skin: 17 micron Merino minimum
- Outerwear: 20+ micron acceptable, focus on GSM
- Cashmere-wool blend: Grade A cashmere + 17 micron Merino
What Sellers Should Provide
- Micron test certificate (Sirolan Fleecescan or OFDA)
- Staple length report
- Vegetable matter (VM) content
- Origin certification (Australia/NZ preferred)
About Blueridge Trade LLP
Blueridge Trade LLP operates a dual business model. Our textile division is a direct manufacturer โ we own and operate the production of our cashmere, Merino wool, silk, organic cotton, and blended fabric programmes, controlling quality from fibre sourcing through finishing. This vertical integration is what allows us to guarantee Grade A specifications and offer competitive private-label terms to international brands.
Beyond textiles, we operate as a trading and sourcing partner for industrial commodities (copper, aluminium, zinc, tin, tungsten scrap, activated carbon), botanicals and spices, export-grade packaging, and consumables. In these categories we leverage a vetted network of Indian producers rather than manufacturing in-house โ giving international buyers a single consolidated point of contact for both textile manufacturing and broader Indian sourcing requirements.