Wool Grading Guide — Super-S, Micron, Staple Length for Buyers

Wool grading is often confusing because multiple grading systems overlap. Understanding what "Super 120s" actually means — and when it matters — is essential to specifying wool programmes correctly. This guide explains the four key metrics: Super-S number, micron count, staple length and comfort factor.

The Super-S System

Super-S is a marketing designation tied to fibre diameter:

Super 80s: 19.5 micron — mid-market suiting
Super 100s: 18.5 micron — standard commercial premium
Super 120s: 17.5 micron — premium mid-market retail
Super 130s: 16.5 micron — premium tier
Super 150s: 16.0 micron — luxury tier
Super 180s: 14.5 micron — ultra-luxury, delicate
Super 200s and above: rare, artisan

Understanding Micron Count

Lower micron = finer fibre = softer hand + higher cost:

Under 15 microns: cashmere-comparable softness, delicate
15–19 microns: Merino wool range
19–22 microns: mid-market wool
22–28 microns: coarser wools, for outerwear/carpet

Staple Length

Longer staple = stronger yarn = less pilling:

Under 55mm: shorter staple, more pilling
55–75mm: standard commercial
75mm+: premium (Merino from mature sheep)

Comfort Factor

Percentage of fibres under 30 microns — higher means less itch:

Below 90%: itchy
90–95%: acceptable for outerwear
95%+: skin-contact suitable

Choosing Wool Grade by End Use

Business suit (year-round wear): Super 100s–120s, 9–10oz
Formal wedding suit: Super 130s–150s
Base layer / next-to-skin: 17 micron Merino minimum
Outerwear: 20+ micron acceptable, focus on GSM
Cashmere-wool blend: Grade A cashmere + 17 micron Merino

What Sellers Should Provide

Micron test certificate (Sirolan Fleecescan or OFDA)
Staple length report
Vegetable matter (VM) content
Origin certification (Australia/NZ preferred)

Frequently Asked Questions

What payment terms are standard for Indian textile imports?

Standard payment structure is 30% advance via TT (telegraphic transfer) plus 70% against copy of bill of lading. Letters of credit (LC) are recommended for first-time relationships or large orders ($50,000+). Established repeat buyers can negotiate DA/DP terms or open account. Avoid 100% advance payment except for very small sample orders.

How do I verify an Indian supplier before placing a large order?

Verify: IEC code (Indian Import-Export Code from DGFT), GST registration, physical factory address (via video call or third-party visit), references from 2+ existing international customers, SEDEX or BSCI social audit, relevant OEKO-TEX/GOTS scope certificates. Pre-shipment inspection is essential — budget $250–500 per shipment via SGS, Intertek or Bureau Veritas.

What HS code applies to my product for import duty?

HS code depends on fibre composition and construction. Silk items are Chapter 50; wool Chapter 51; cotton Chapter 52; knitted apparel Chapter 61; woven apparel Chapter 62; home textiles Chapter 63. Get a formal HS code determination from your destination customs broker before first import — mis-classification causes customs delays and unexpected duty charges.

Can Indian suppliers ship directly to my end customer (dropshipping)?

Yes, dropshipping from India is technically possible. But it comes with challenges: 14–35 day sea transit customer expectation management, unexpected destination duty charges, complex returns handling, quality control gaps per shipment. For most brands, a wholesale-import-then-fulfil model produces better customer experience than pure dropshipping.

About Blueridge Trade LLP

Blueridge Trade LLP operates a dual business model. Our textile division is a direct manufacturer — we own and operate the production of our cashmere, Merino wool, silk, organic cotton, and blended fabric programmes, controlling quality from fibre sourcing through finishing. This vertical integration is what allows us to guarantee Grade A specifications and offer competitive private-label terms to international brands.

Beyond textiles, we operate as a trading and sourcing partner for industrial commodities (copper, aluminium, zinc, tin, tungsten scrap, activated carbon), botanicals and spices, export-grade packaging, and consumables. In these categories we leverage a vetted network of Indian producers rather than manufacturing in-house — giving international buyers a single consolidated point of contact for both textile manufacturing and broader Indian sourcing requirements.

Wool Grading Complete Guide: Super-S, Micron & Staple Length for B2B Buyers