Fabric Weight (GSM) Complete Buyer's Guide

GSM (grams per square metre) is the single most useful fabric specification for buyers — but also the most misunderstood. A "180 GSM cotton" can mean radically different products depending on fibre, weave and finish. This guide sorts out what GSM ranges actually mean by category.

What GSM Actually Measures

GSM = mass per unit area. Higher GSM = heavier, more substantial fabric. Lower GSM = lighter, more drapy.

Cotton by GSM

60–90 GSM: Voile, muslin, gauze — baby wear, curtains
90–130 GSM: Lightweight shirting, blouses
130–180 GSM: T-shirts, standard summer apparel
180–220 GSM: Polo shirts, hoodies (single jersey)
220–320 GSM: Fleece, sweatshirts
320+ GSM: Heavy fleece, winter items

Wool by GSM

150–180 GSM: Ultra-lightweight tropical suiting
180–220 GSM: Year-round business suit
220–280 GSM: Standard mid-weight suiting
280–340 GSM: Winter suits, blazers
340–480 GSM: Overcoats, peacoats

Silk by Momme (Not GSM)

Silk uses "momme" — 1 momme = 4.3 GSM:

6mm: chiffon, ultra-sheer
8mm: habotai
12mm: crepe-de-chine
16mm: standard satin
19–22mm: pillowcase premium
25mm+: heavy satin, luxury

Cashmere by GSM

140–180 GSM: lightweight scarf
200–250 GSM: standard winter scarf
280–350 GSM: heavy luxury scarf/throw
350+ GSM: blanket-weight

GSM Tolerance

Specify tolerance on PO: ±5% is standard. Above 10% variance indicates inconsistent production.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the minimum fabric quantity per colour I can order?

Standard MOQ for made-to-order fabric is 500 metres per colour per construction. Stock fabrics may be available in 100–300m lots at premium pricing. Some mills carry "seasonal remnant" stocks at lower minimums. For custom weaves or specialty constructions, MOQ typically rises to 1,000+ metres.

How do I verify the fibre composition of my fabric shipment?

Request an independent fibre composition test (SGS, Intertek, Bureau Veritas, or Alex Stewart) on the actual bulk lot before shipment. The test verifies percentage of each fibre by weight against the specification. Cost is typically $150–300 per test and worth the certainty — mis-declared fibre content is one of the most common textile import disputes.

What lead time should I plan for custom-woven fabric?

From order confirmation: yarn procurement 2 weeks, loom setup 3 weeks (for new construction), sample and approval 2 weeks, bulk weaving 3–5 weeks, finishing and shipping preparation 1 week. Total: 12–16 weeks for a first custom weave. Repeat orders on the same construction compress to 5–7 weeks.

How is fabric priced — per metre or per kilogram?

Most fabric is priced per running metre at a standard width (e.g., 140cm or 150cm). Some technical fabrics and yarn are priced per kilogram. When comparing quotes across suppliers, verify the width and GSM — a "per metre" quote at 110cm width isn't comparable to one at 150cm width for the same GSM.

About Blueridge Trade LLP

Blueridge Trade LLP operates a dual business model. Our textile division is a direct manufacturer — we own and operate the production of our cashmere, Merino wool, silk, organic cotton, and blended fabric programmes, controlling quality from fibre sourcing through finishing. This vertical integration is what allows us to guarantee Grade A specifications and offer competitive private-label terms to international brands.

Beyond textiles, we operate as a trading and sourcing partner for industrial commodities (copper, aluminium, zinc, tin, tungsten scrap, activated carbon), botanicals and spices, export-grade packaging, and consumables. In these categories we leverage a vetted network of Indian producers rather than manufacturing in-house — giving international buyers a single consolidated point of contact for both textile manufacturing and broader Indian sourcing requirements.